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Lengthy age statements and high proofs are two things that still hold a lot of meaning to some whiskey drinkers. Of course, neither one necessarily is an assurance of quality: Just because a whiskey is older doesn’t mean it’s better, and I’ve tried whiskeys bottled at 86 proof that are far superior to any cask-strength expression. Barrell Craft Spirits is betting that people will at least appreciate, if not judge, its latest release based on both qualities. Decade is a whiskey aged up to 30 years and bottled at the certified hazmat level of 142.7 proof.
And yet, somehow despite the odds, this whiskey is still interesting, tasty, and drinkable. Actually, it’s whisky and not whiskey: Decades is a blend of Canadian whiskies that were distilled every year from 1995 to 2005, with barrels from each year selected for their particular flavor profile according to the company. The source of the whisky is not revealed, but based on its age and other releases from Barrell, at least one component presumably comes from Alberta Distillers Limited in Calgary (according to founder Joe Beatrice, it’s a blend of rye and other types of whisky from different distilleries). That distillery produces whisky that it releases under the name Alberta Premium and is also the source for other brands like WhistlePig among others. It’s also the place where, a couple of years ago, I sampled the strongest whisky I’ve ever tasted, a 23-year-old Canadian rye that clocked in at 168 proof, or 84 percent ABV—which was barely drinkable, truth be told.
Decade is not nearly that strong, but anything over 140 proof is considered to be hazmat level and the FAA has banned it from being brought onboard an airplane. “We have released small amounts of hazmat whiskey over the years and have noticed that there are some people who seek them out,” Beatrice told Robb Report. “We will only release a hazmat if we can create a high-quality blend that is flavor-driven. Also, please note that although they are hazmat, they are cask strength—this is just how they came out of the barrel.”
As is often the case with Barrell Craft Spirits releases, there is a secondary maturation involved here. The component blends were finished separately in Kentucky in Hungarian oak barrels and casks previously used to mature Spanish brandy; then, they were blended together. The result is a palate that belies its incredibly strong proof and turns out to be something you’d actually want to sip, albeit maybe with some water added or over a large ice cube. Decade immediately reads as Canadian whisky, with notes of maple, caramel, vanilla, and brown sugar, but there is a healthy dose of oak, black and white pepper, chocolate-covered espresso bean, hot honey, and raisin in the mix as well.
Barrell Decade launches this month (SRP $200), and will be available at the Barrell Craft Spirits website and retail stores around the country. You can find many other BCS expressions available to purchase now at ReserveBar.